Introduction: Why Besalú Should Be on Your Travel List
Nestled in the heart of Catalonia, Besalú is a medieval gem that transports visitors back in time. With its iconic 12th-century Romanesque bridge, cobblestone streets, and rich Jewish heritage, this small town offers an unforgettable escape from the crowds of Barcelona (just 1.5 hours away).
I first visited Besalú on a whim, expecting a quick stopover—but the moment I crossed its arched stone bridge, the crisp mountain air and the sound of the Fluvià River below made me stay longer. The scent of freshly baked xuixos wafted from a nearby bakery, mingling with the earthy aroma of ancient stone. Whether you’re a history buff, foodie, or photographer, Besalú delivers charm at every turn.
Why Visit Besalú?
– Step Back in Time: One of the best-preserved medieval towns in Spain.
– Jewish Heritage: Home to a rare 12th-century miqvé (ritual bath).
– Gastronomic Delights: Catalan cuisine at its finest, from farm-to-table dishes to artisanal cheeses.
– Photographer’s Paradise: Golden-hour light bathes the stone facades in a warm glow.
When to Visit Besalú for the Best Experience
Best Seasons for Travel
- Spring (April–June): Mild weather (15–25°C), blooming flowers, and fewer tourists. Perfect for leisurely strolls along the riverbank.
- Fall (September–November): Golden foliage and local festivals like the Medieval Fair (early September), where the town transforms into a living history museum.
- Winter (December–February): Quieter, with festive lights—ideal for photographers. The bridge dusted with frost is a sight to behold.
Events & Festivals
- Besalú Medieval Fair (Early September): Knights joust in the square, blacksmiths demonstrate ancient crafts, and minstrels perform. Don’t miss the falconry displays!
- Sant Ferran Festival (June): Fireworks light up the night sky, and locals perform the sardana, Catalonia’s traditional circle dance.
- Christmas Market (December): Handmade crafts, turrón (nougat), and cava (Catalan sparkling wine) fill the Plaça de la Llibertat.
Pro Tip: Avoid July–August if you dislike crowds—day-trippers from Costa Brava flock here. Visit early morning or late afternoon for quieter moments.
Off the Beaten Path: Hidden Gems in Besalú
1. The Jewish Ritual Bath (Miqvé)
Discovered in 1964, this 12th-century bath is one of only three remaining in Europe. Descending into the dimly lit underground chamber, you’ll feel the weight of history. The stone steps, worn smooth by centuries of use, lead to a pool fed by natural springs. The silence here is profound—a stark contrast to the bustling streets above.
2. Sant Pere Monastery
A Romanesque masterpiece with intricate carvings of biblical scenes. Climb the narrow spiral staircase to the bell tower for panoramic views of the town and the Fluvià River snaking through the valley. The morning light filtering through the stained glass creates a kaleidoscope of colors on the stone floor.
3. The Forgotten Corners of Carrer del Pont
Wander this narrow alley for ivy-clad stone houses and artisan workshops. I stumbled upon a tiny bookbinder crafting leather journals using techniques passed down through generations—his hands moved with practiced precision, and the smell of aged leather was intoxicating.
4. Santa Maria de Besalú Ruins
A short hike uphill rewards you with the ruins of this 10th-century church. Overgrown with wildflowers, it’s a peaceful spot for reflection. At sunset, the ruins cast long shadows over the valley below.
Local Experiences You Can’t Miss
1. Taste Sweet “Xuixos” at Pastisseria Ca la Pruna
These fried pastries filled with custard are a Catalan specialty. The first bite—crispy outside, creamy inside—is pure bliss. Pair it with a strong cafè amb llet (coffee with milk) for the perfect breakfast.
2. Join a Cheese-Making Workshop
Local farms like Formatgeria La Garrotxa teach you to craft Garrotxa cheese, a nutty Catalan delicacy. Kneading the warm curds and pressing them into molds is oddly therapeutic.
3. Night Walk Across the Illuminated Bridge
At dusk, the bridge glows golden—a photographer’s dream. The reflection on the river doubles the magic. Listen for the distant chime of church bells.
4. Hot Air Balloon Ride Over Garrotxa
For a splurge (€150–€200), float above the volcanic landscape at sunrise. The patchwork of green fields and medieval villages is unforgettable.
Unique Accommodations: Where to Stay
| Type | Recommendation | Price Range (per night) | Why Stay Here? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Boutique Hotel | Hotel 3 Arcs (stone-walled rooms) | €90–€150 | Rooftop terrace with bridge views. |
| Rural Guesthouse | Can Miquel (farmhouse views) | €60–€100 | Homemade breakfast with local honey. |
| Budget Hostel | Alberg de Besalú (dorm beds) | €20–€35 | Social vibe, communal kitchen. |
| Luxury Stay | Casa Marcial (16th-century manor) | €200+ | Private garden and pool. |
Pro Tip: Book early in summer—options fill fast! For a unique experience, try agroturismos (farm stays) in the surrounding countryside.
Authentic Food Spots: Where to Eat
1. Restaurant Curia Reial
Housed in a 15th-century building, this spot serves “trinxat” (potato-cabbage stew with bacon) in a vaulted dining room. Their escudella (Catalan meat stew) is winter comfort food at its best.
2. Els Fogons de Can Llaudes
Family-run for generations, their succulent lamb confit falls off the bone. Save room for crema catalana (similar to crème brûlée).
3. Gelats Besalú
Artisanal ice cream in flavors like honey-rosemary or mató (Catalan fresh cheese) with walnuts.
4. Bar Casino
A local favorite for tapas. Try the patatas bravas with garlic aioli and a glass of vi negre (local red wine).
Personal Anecdote: I still dream about their “pa amb tomàquet” (tomato-rubbed bread) served on a sunlit terrace, the crust crackling under my fingers.
3-Day Besalú Itinerary
Day 1: Medieval Immersion
- Morning: Cross the bridge at sunrise → Explore Plaça de la Llibertat’s weekly market (Saturdays).
- Afternoon: Tour Miqvé → Lunch at Curia Reial (trinxat and local wine).
- Evening: Sunset at Sant Julià viewpoint → Dinner at Els Fogons.
Day 2: Culture & Nature
- Morning: Sant Pere Monastery → Cheese workshop at Formatgeria La Garrotxa.
- Afternoon: Hike to Santa Maria de Besalú ruins (pack a picnic).
- Evening: Night photography on the bridge → Drinks at Bar Casino.
Day 3: Day Trips & Relaxation
- Morning: Visit Garrotxa Volcanic Zone (30 min drive; hike to Santa Margarida volcano).
- Afternoon: Swim at Banyoles Lake (turquoise waters, €5 kayak rentals).
- Evening: Farewell dinner at Casa Marcial (tasting menu with wine pairing).
Practical Tips for Exploring Besalú
Transportation
- From Barcelona: Take the R11 train to Figueres (1.5 hrs, €8), then a taxi (€25) or bus (ALSA line, €5).
- Parking: Free outside town center; €2/hour near the bridge.
Budget Breakdown
- Meals: €10–€25 per person.
- Attractions: €3–€8 per site (Miqvé €5, Sant Pere €4).
- Workshops: €20–€50 (cheese-making €35).
Pro Tip: Wear sturdy shoes—cobblestones are uneven! Learn a few Catalan phrases like “Bon dia” (Good morning) to charm locals.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. Is Besalú worth a day trip from Barcelona?
Absolutely! Its compact size makes it perfect for a day visit, but staying overnight lets you experience its magic without crowds. The bridge at dawn is worth the early wake-up.
2. How do I get to Besalú without a car?
Trains run to Figueres, then take a taxi (€25) or bus (ALSA line, €5, 30 mins).
3. What’s the best photo spot?
The hill near Sant Julià church offers a postcard view of the bridge. For reflections, shoot from the riverbank at golden hour.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted?
Yes, but carry €20–€50 cash for small shops and market stalls.
5. Is Besalú family-friendly?
Yes! Kids love the medieval fair, river walks, and xuixos treats.
6. What’s the local etiquette?
- Greet shopkeepers with “Bon dia.”
- Dinner starts late (8:30–10 PM).
- Tipping: Round up the bill (5–10%).
Conclusion: Start Your Besalú Adventure Today!
From its storied past to its mouthwatering cuisine, Besalú is a destination that lingers in your memory. Whether you’re tracing Jewish history or savoring xuixos by the river, every moment here feels timeless.
Note: Ready to explore? Book your trip now before high season hits!
